The Goodspeed Motoring advanced reconditioning articles have been developed with the advanced car detailer in mind. From color sanding paint to applying underbody sealers, we offer processes not explained elsewhere. If you are not comfortable with professional grade tools and chemicals you should not attempt the techniques described in our advanced section.
Enjoy,
Jeremy Goodspeed
Washing should be a part of your weekly routine. Washing a vehicle removes grime and dirt build up that clings to your vehicles surface. A routine washing program is essential to keeping the exterior surfaces from excessive dulling, leading to deterioration of the vehicles finish. A proper washing or detailing preparation can improve the entire detailing process.
GETTING STARTED: As with most detailing procedures, always avoid direct sunlight when washing any vehicle. This ensures that sunlight will not increase the surface temperature. This increase can allow water spots to magnify, burning alkali deposits onto the surfaces. Collect all the cleaners and chemicals that you will be using in this process. Also collect gloves and safety goggles, and remember to work in a well-ventilated area.
Always start washing process with the tire/wheels and the fender wells. It is important to not get the vehicle wet at this time. A wet vehicle needs to be kept wet once it is been saturated. This can be a distraction while cleaning the wheels and fender wells. Cleaning wheels/tires and fender wells can be somewhat time consuming.
FENDER WELLS: Start cleaning fender wells by spraying with a Cleaner or Degreaser. Apply cleaner or de-greaser and allow to dwell for a few minutes. Keeping fender wells clean and dirt free, is good insurance from the collection of moisture and road salt. These contaminates can lead to underbody rust (A visit from the troublesome tin worm). After allowing cleaner to dwell, scrub with a long handled brush and rinse. On heavy soiled vehicles, repeating the above process may be necessary. An electric pressure washer may also assist in this cleaning process.
WHEEL CLEANING: Routine cleaning of a vehicles wheels is essential for their longevity. Hot brake dust attaches itself onto a vehicles wheels. If left un-cleaned this dust will permanently bond with the wheel and make cleaning troublesome or even impossible. On warm vehicles, allow the wheels to cool prior to cleaning. If the vehicles brakes are hot, cooling with water may warp brake rotors. Spray cleaner onto the wheel, agitate cleaner with a soft brush or wash mitt specifically intended for wheels, and rinse. DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY ON WHEEL. Never use paint wash mitt on wheels. Follow manufacture instructions on wheel cleaners. For heavy soiled vehicles, an electric pressure washer may assist this cleaning process.
Use the wheel cleaner best designed for your type of wheel!
-Refer to wheel polishing for finishing techniques.
TIRE CLEANING: Cleaning tires will remove a browning effect on the surface. This is caused by road oils, grime and brake dust. Use an appropriate tire/white wall cleaner. Scrub with a soft nylon brush and rinse.
WHITE WALLS and RAISED WHITE LETTERED TIRES: Cleaning white walls will brighten the overall effect of the tire. Use the same cleaner used on tires. Spray, Scrub white walls with a brass bristled brush and rinse.
DOOR JAMBS: This is a great way to remove grease build up around strikers and door hinges. Spray door jambs with a degreaser concentrating on one door jamb at a time. Be careful not to use a de-greaser that will stain painted surfaces. If unsure, dilute solution to reduce potency and test in an inconspicuous spot. Agitate with a small soft nylon brush. Carefully rinse not allowing water to splatter into interior. Remember to re-lube hinges and strikers to replenish lost lubricants.
TRIM CLEANING: Any exterior trim that has any accumulation of dirt build-up needs to be cleaned of its grime. Black plastic bumpers trim panels, and convertible tops all attract soiling. Use a heavy-duty top /interior cleaner diluted to its recommended ratio. Spray on to trim, scrub with a firm (not hard) bristled brush & rinse immediately. Use caution around painted surfaces as not to scratch them. Be aware that on some acrylic enamel or single stage painted surfaces that have a visible amount of oxidation, some staining may occur. These stains can be polished, so only clean trim when prepared to polish paint when necessary.
WASHING CONVERTIBLE TOPS: Convertible tops are comprised of two materials: Vinyl and Canvas. Using a vinyl convertible top cleaner with a stiff bristled scrub brush can effectively clean vinyl tops. Wet the entire vehicle as not to allow the cleaner to stain any painted surface. Spray top cleaner onto the top in a small section, and scrub thoroughly using an appropriate scrub brush. Rinse, inspect and repeat as necessary. Canvas tops are much more fragile than vinyl. Canvas tops must be rinsed with a hose to remove dirt and contaminates. They may be washed with a canvas top cleaner and rinsed thoroughly to remove trapped dirt. Be sure to rinse thoroughly. Do not scrub a canvas top with a scrub brush, as it can damage the surface. It is a good idea to use a fabric top protector periodically to aid in the water repellency and stain protection.
WASHING PAINT: Start the paint-washing step by preparing a clean 5-gallon bucket with the appropriate amount of car wash soap (approximately 1 oz per gallon). Fill the bucket 2/3 with water and add a cleaned wash mitt. Next, prepare a second clean 5-gallon bucket with fresh water. Use this second bucket to rinse the wash mitt before re-soaping in the other bucket. This will keep your soaping bucket cleaner and allow the soap to last longer. Filling each bucket 2/3 with water will allow dirt to fall to the bottom of the bucket and away from wash mitt when rinsing and re-soaping. DO NOT USE DISH SOAP. This type of soap will strip any protective finish from the paint. Dish soap may also streak the finish. After the wash bucket has been prepared, give the vehicle a thorough rinsing. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER. Using pressure can embed dirt particles into the paint. When washing, use only light pressure. Heavy pressure will lead to paint scratches and dull the finish. Start with the top of the vehicle and work towards the bottom. This insures that dirt from a lower panel will not be transferred to upper surfaces. It is recommended to wash a small area at a time before rinsing. This assures that soap will not dry, causing a buildup. Many times a different wash mitt will be used on lower surfaces. This will keep an upper panel wash mitt from being contaminated. A particularly dirty vehicle may need to be washed twice. Rinse thoroughly. Pay attention to cracks & crevices where soap may still be present.
PAINT SOILING BUILD-UP: Removing paint soiling build-up requires a paint safe chemical that will exfoliate dirt particles from the painted surface. This technique works effectively around emblems and paint edges where washing is commonly overlooked or difficult to wash. When using the specified chemical, this process is recommended by all U.S. auto manufactures. Test in an inconspicuous spot on a freshly washed vehicle to test paint compatibility. Spray or wash in small areas (see Manufacture instructions). It is best to concentrate on one body panel at a time.
Agitate with a soft toothbrush or bug sponge. Be careful not to scratch paint. Rinse thoroughly. Do not allow to dry on the surface. Inspect to be sure that all soiling build-up has been properly removed. Redo any stubborn areas. When finished, be sure to re-wash vehicle to neutralize any residue that may still be present.
DRYING: To dry vehicle use a synthetic chamois starting with top surfaces. Synthetic chamois are more absorbent & softer then natural leather chamois. Many detailers differ about what to use to dry a vehicle. Some say it needs to be dried using cotton towels. A synthetic chamois will do a better job of absorbing moisture and drying the surface as long as you thoroughly rinse the chamois out after every use.
Drying is best accomplished as a four-part process:
Special Note: When drying a vehicle that has wire wheels, be sure to thoroughly dry the spokes where they enter the rim and the hub. This can be accomplished by using compressed air to chase out this moisture. If you don't have a air compressor, be sure to drive the vehicle to chase out this moisture. Failing to do so can damage the wheel and cause premature rusting.
Washing should be a part of your weekly routine. Washing a vehicle removes grime and dirt build up that clings to your vehicles surface. A routine washing program is essential to keeping the exterior surfaces from excessive dulling, leading to deterioration of the vehicles finish. A proper washing or detailing preparation can improve the entire detailing process.
GETTING STARTED: As with most detailing procedures, always avoid direct sunlight when washing any vehicle. This ensures that sunlight will not increase the surface temperature. This increase can allow water spots to magnify, burning alkali deposits onto the surfaces. Collect all the cleaners and chemicals that you will be using in this process. Also collect gloves and safety goggles, and remember to work in a well-ventilated area.
Always start washing process with the tire/wheels and the fender wells. It is important to not get the vehicle wet at this time. A wet vehicle needs to be kept wet once it is been saturated. This can be a distraction while cleaning the wheels and fender wells. Cleaning wheels/tires and fender wells can be somewhat time consuming.
FENDER WELLS: Start cleaning fender wells by spraying with a Cleaner or Degreaser. Apply cleaner or de-greaser and allow to dwell for a few minutes. Keeping fender wells clean and dirt free, is good insurance from the collection of moisture and road salt. These contaminates can lead to underbody rust (A visit from the troublesome tin worm). After allowing cleaner to dwell, scrub with a long handled brush and rinse. On heavy soiled vehicles, repeating the above process may be necessary. An electric pressure washer may also assist in this cleaning process.
WHEEL CLEANING: Routine cleaning of a vehicles wheels is essential for their longevity. Hot brake dust attaches itself onto a vehicles wheels. If left un-cleaned this dust will permanently bond with the wheel and make cleaning troublesome or even impossible. On warm vehicles, allow the wheels to cool prior to cleaning. If the vehicles brakes are hot, cooling with water may warp brake rotors. Spray cleaner onto the wheel, agitate cleaner with a soft brush or wash mitt specifically intended for wheels, and rinse. DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY ON WHEEL. Never use paint wash mitt on wheels. Follow manufacture instructions on wheel cleaners. For heavy soiled vehicles, an electric pressure washer may assist this cleaning process.
Use the wheel cleaner best designed for your type of wheel!
-Refer to wheel polishing for finishing techniques.
TIRE CLEANING: Cleaning tires will remove a browning effect on the surface. This is caused by road oils, grime and brake dust. Use an appropriate tire/white wall cleaner. Scrub with a soft nylon brush and rinse.
WHITE WALLS and RAISED WHITE LETTERED TIRES: Cleaning white walls will brighten the overall effect of the tire. Use the same cleaner used on tires. Spray, Scrub white walls with a brass bristled brush and rinse.
DOOR JAMBS: This is a great way to remove grease build up around strikers and door hinges. Spray door jambs with a degreaser concentrating on one door jamb at a time. Be careful not to use a de-greaser that will stain painted surfaces. If unsure, dilute solution to reduce potency and test in an inconspicuous spot. Agitate with a small soft nylon brush. Carefully rinse not allowing water to splatter into interior. Remember to re-lube hinges and strikers to replenish lost lubricants.
TRIM CLEANING: Any exterior trim that has any accumulation of dirt build-up needs to be cleaned of its grime. Black plastic bumpers trim panels, and convertible tops all attract soiling. Use a heavy-duty top /interior cleaner diluted to its recommended ratio. Spray on to trim, scrub with a firm (not hard) bristled brush & rinse immediately. Use caution around painted surfaces as not to scratch them. Be aware that on some acrylic enamel or single stage painted surfaces that have a visible amount of oxidation, some staining may occur. These stains can be polished, so only clean trim when prepared to polish paint when necessary.
WASHING CONVERTIBLE TOPS: Convertible tops are comprised of two materials: Vinyl and Canvas. Using a vinyl convertible top cleaner with a stiff bristled scrub brush can effectively clean vinyl tops. Wet the entire vehicle as not to allow the cleaner to stain any painted surface. Spray top cleaner onto the top in a small section, and scrub thoroughly using an appropriate scrub brush. Rinse, inspect and repeat as necessary. Canvas tops are much more fragile than vinyl. Canvas tops must be rinsed with a hose to remove dirt and contaminates. They may be washed with a canvas top cleaner and rinsed thoroughly to remove trapped dirt. Be sure to rinse thoroughly. Do not scrub a canvas top with a scrub brush, as it can damage the surface. It is a good idea to use a fabric top protector periodically to aid in the water repellency and stain protection.
WASHING PAINT: Start the paint-washing step by preparing a clean 5-gallon bucket with the appropriate amount of car wash soap (approximately 1 oz per gallon). Fill the bucket 2/3 with water and add a cleaned wash mitt. Next, prepare a second clean 5-gallon bucket with fresh water. Use this second bucket to rinse the wash mitt before re-soaping in the other bucket. This will keep your soaping bucket cleaner and allow the soap to last longer. Filling each bucket 2/3 with water will allow dirt to fall to the bottom of the bucket and away from wash mitt when rinsing and re-soaping. DO NOT USE DISH SOAP. This type of soap will strip any protective finish from the paint. Dish soap may also streak the finish. After the wash bucket has been prepared, give the vehicle a thorough rinsing. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER. Using pressure can embed dirt particles into the paint. When washing, use only light pressure. Heavy pressure will lead to paint scratches and dull the finish. Start with the top of the vehicle and work towards the bottom. This insures that dirt from a lower panel will not be transferred to upper surfaces. It is recommended to wash a small area at a time before rinsing. This assures that soap will not dry, causing a buildup. Many times a different wash mitt will be used on lower surfaces. This will keep an upper panel wash mitt from being contaminated. A particularly dirty vehicle may need to be washed twice. Rinse thoroughly. Pay attention to cracks & crevices where soap may still be present.
PAINT SOILING BUILD-UP: Removing paint soiling build-up requires a paint safe chemical that will exfoliate dirt particles from the painted surface. This technique works effectively around emblems and paint edges where washing is commonly overlooked or difficult to wash. When using the specified chemical, this process is recommended by all U.S. auto manufactures. Test in an inconspicuous spot on a freshly washed vehicle to test paint compatibility. Spray or wash in small areas (see Manufacture instructions). It is best to concentrate on one body panel at a time.
Agitate with a soft toothbrush or bug sponge. Be careful not to scratch paint. Rinse thoroughly. Do not allow to dry on the surface. Inspect to be sure that all soiling build-up has been properly removed. Redo any stubborn areas. When finished, be sure to re-wash vehicle to neutralize any residue that may still be present.
DRYING: To dry vehicle use a synthetic chamois starting with top surfaces. Synthetic chamois are more absorbent & softer then natural leather chamois. Many detailers differ about what to use to dry a vehicle. Some say it needs to be dried using cotton towels. A synthetic chamois will do a better job of absorbing moisture and drying the surface as long as you thoroughly rinse the chamois out after every use.
Drying is best accomplished as a four-part process:
Special Note: When drying a vehicle that has wire wheels, be sure to thoroughly dry the spokes where they enter the rim and the hub. This can be accomplished by using compressed air to chase out this moisture. If you don't have a air compressor, be sure to drive the vehicle to chase out this moisture. Failing to do so can damage the wheel and cause premature rusting.
Surface preparation is the process that removes embedded particles and surface contaminates from paint surfaces. These are contaminates that were not removed by the washing process. They include industrial fallout, rail dust and paint over spray. Industrial fallout (IFO) and rail dust both are created from environmental pollution. This pollution is carried across the atmosphere by wind currents, eventually falling from the sky. It then attaches itself to vehicle exteriors. It is especially noticeable on white vehicles where it is visible as small rust colored spots. It can also be felt by gliding a hand across the paint surface. A rough texture can be felt. Even new cars have the presence of IFO from being shipped and stored at shipping points and at dealerships. Paint over spray occurs to more than 1 out of every 4 vehicles. On a breezy or windy day, a painter’s work can travel some distance. This airborne paint attaches itself to everything in its path. Paint over spray can also be seen and felt.
SURFACE CONTAMINATION REMOVAL: Surface contamination removal bars are often referred to as Clay Bars.They remove IFO, paint over spray, dead oxidized paint as well as other bonded contaminates. They are called clay bars because they are comprised of a bar shaped clay like material. They are used along with a detailing clay bar lubricant to reduce resistance as the bar glides across the surface. To remove contaminates, make sure the vehicle has been properly washed. Spray the Clay Bar Lubricant on the panel to be cleaned. Clean only one panel at a time (one fender or a half of a hood). Gently glide the bar across in a back and fourth motion until resistance is eliminated. Wipe moisture away with a clean Cotton Towel or Microfiber Towel. Fold bar over, kneed into a pancake form and use on the next panel. DO NOT ALLOW BAR TO COME IN CONTACT WITH ANY FOREIGN SURFACES SUCH AS THE FLOOR ETC. If the bar becomes dirty, or falls onto the ground, it can scratch the paint surface. Clay bars have specific benefits. This process can be performed in a relatively small amount of time. It also allows polishing and waxing to be more effectively applied and removed. The paint will also look cleaner, and be easier to maintain.
The process of polishing a vehicle is to aid in the restoration of neglected paint. Oxidation, scratches and other paint blemishes all take their toll, leaving behind a neglected finish. Polishing will eliminate fine scratches, restore rich color and rejuvenate oils that were lost by washing, sun, rain, age and smog. The process of polishing may use either a single step, or a multiple step process, depending on the severity of the blemishes. Polishing can be performed either by machine or by hand.
MACHINE POLISHING: Machine polishing or "buffing" as some professionals call it, is the procedure that professional and skilled home detailers use to remove imperfections in paint. A machine process is less fatiguing and much faster than a hand rubbed method. This method uses less polishing product, and allows more uniform gloss. A machine process is notably better for both oxidation and scratch removal. Most aggressive and medium polishes designed for scratch or oxidation removal use the heat generated by friction to aid in their polishing operation. This friction cannot be generated by hand use, therefore only moderate results will occur by using these polishes by hand. A person with experience should attempt machine polishing. Things move very fast with this type of process. Variable speed circular polisher will help in the control. If you want experience, find body panels to practice on. Wrecking yard parts are good. Don’t make your first mistake on your prized auto. Otherwise consult a professional for this procedure.
When using a circular polisher on paint, keep the following rules in mind:
Use masking tape to protect trim from the risk of being burned and eliminate the risk of compound damage to plastic parts such as bumpers, window trim etc.
When polishing near an edge, always polish off edge and reduce speed. A polisher polishes in a clockwise direction. Tilt the polisher slightly to the right, and allow the right edge to polish off the end of the panel. Allowing the left side to dig into the panel will result in burning the paint.
To remove moderate and heavy scratches always work in a cool area. Always take a conservative approach to paint polishing. It is better to live with a small imperfection, than repaint a panel from being too aggressive. A rule to determine weather a scratch can be removed is to see if you can catch your fingernail in the blemish. If you can, you may only lighten the scratch at best. Remember, paint is only so thick and clear coats are thinner. Always spot polish scratches individually with a compound or polish just strong enough to remove or lighten the blemish. Using too heavy of a compound will leave swirl marks that will require additional polishing to remove. In most cases, a body panel with a moderate blemish will require two or three steps to restore the surface.
To remove light scratches and blemishes, use lighter polishes to remove both swirl marks left by the previous polishing step as well as to remove light blemishes. When polishing, each step will build on each other. Always polish a small area at a time. Remember to always wipe all compounds from the surface before it dries. Dried polishes become abrasive and could scratch the freshly polished surface. It is also a good idea to remove polishes to keep polishes from being mixed. Some polishes are not compatible with each other when combined.
The type of polishing pad will also affect the way the compound is transferred to the surface. Polishing pads are available in both wool and foam. Wool will leave more surface blemishes, however it makes a cleaner cut on areas of imperfections. This is due to wool pads having a firmer cutting surface. Usually wool pads are best used for spot repairs or body panels needing total restoration. Foam pads are less aggressive and available in two types, cutting and polishing. Foam cutting pads are less aggressive than wool pads. They transfer some of the heat away from the panel and allow oxygen into the polishing area. The less heat, the less cutting force. Remember, just like polishes; use the polishing/cutting pad only aggressive enough to do the job. Foam polishing pads also allow heat transfer to escape. Foam polishing pads are for light scratches and final machine polishing.
ORBITAL MACHINE POLISHING: The main function of an orbital polisher is to eliminate both polishing marks caused by a circular polishing, and to remove light imperfections caused by normal washing. If a vehicle has only light marks or is new, this may be the first step. A random orbital polisher is efficient, provides even pressure across the pad surface (eliminating swirls caused by an improper hand application) and is easier to use by a less experienced detailer. Random orbit polishing is slower and generates less heat than circular polishing, however is several times more efficient than hand polishing and yields swirl free results. Remember; still use caution when using an orbit polisher as it is a machine. To orbit polish, work in a cool area away from direct sunlight. Apply polish onto a foam pad, place the pad onto the surface, and engage the power. Orbital polishers are variable speed, so adjust the speed to a comfortable range (usually between speed 3 and 5). Working one panel at a time, move back and forth working the polish onto the surface. With the polish worked completely into the body panel, wipe the surface with a clean cotton towel before the polish is allowed to dry. If the polish doesn't buff off easily, change to a clean towel and repeat the wiping procedure. When removing a final polish or a glazing material, a microfiber cloth will assist the removal procedure. Proceed to the next panel and repeat until entire vehicle has been polished.
When using an orbital polisher to eliminate polishing marks left behind by a circular polisher, it is a good practice to start with the same polish that was used for the final step with the circular polisher. This is commonly referred to as a "cross over point". By using the same polish twice, this ensures that the polishing marks left by the circular polisher has been properly removed. Not just covered over. It is a good idea to use a medium cleaner/polish for a "cross-over". Most medium polishes do not contain glazing materials, which are designed for gloss enhancement rather than removing polishing marks. The use of a glazing material or a final polish would follow this "cross over" step to increase gloss and paint depth.
A glazing material or final polish is the last orbital polishing step before either sealing the surface with a carnauba wax/polymer sealant or using a final polish that is only recommended for hand application. To eliminate any contamination of the surface, it is recommended to use a separate polish pad for each polish used. A heavier polish that has dried onto a pad could leave small scratches or swirls in the finish, especially when polishing darker colored vehicles. Sometimes several applications of the final polish or glazing material will deepen gloss and eliminate more imperfections.
POLISH PAD CLEANING: When finished using a foam polish pad, it is a good idea to thoroughly clean the pad by using warm water and flushing the compound or polish from the foam material. Squeeze the pad without folding it, and allow it too completely dry. After it has dried, place the pad into its original bag or a clean zip-lock bag for storage. Be sure the pad is dry, or the moisture from the bag may cause the adhesive holding the backing to come apart. Also be sure to label the bag with the polish used with this particular pad to eliminate any cross contamination. Cleaning a pad using this method will extend the pads life.
HAND POLISHING: Hand polishing is both a safe way to for an amateur enthusiast to polish a vehicle and is sometimes necessary using certain final polishes (i.e. Zymol HD Cleanse). Hand polishing is also necessary in areas such as under a door handle, where a polishing machine may not be accessible. Most medium to light polishes may be used either by hand or by machine. The process can be slow, however the results can be rewarding with some patients. Always hand polish in a cool, shaded area. Always work in small areas, one small body panel at a time or half of a larger one. Polish should be applied with a soft cotton towel or an applicator pad following the specific directions on the product label. Using applicator pads lessen the chance of swirl marks by allowing the polish to be applied with even pressure being applied to the body panel. They can be used individually or can be wrapped in a soft cotton polishing cloth to create an application bonnet. Apply polishes in an either a back and fourth motion following the vehicle bodylines or in overlapping circles. Remove the polish with a clean towel or microfiber cloth. Refer to manufacture instructions.
If you are generating swirl marks:
Paint protectants are simply a clear, sacrificial coating that is applied to painted surfaces. Using a carnauba wax or polymer sealant will guard against bird droppings, insects, acid rain, UV rays, ozone, tree sap, road tar and many other hazards you will come across on the road. These protectants can be re-applied with little effort, and will extend the life of your paint.
APPLYING WAXES and PAINT SEALANTS: Always apply waxes and sealants when the surface is cool and away from direct sunlight. As temperatures increase, waxes and sealants become increasingly difficult to remove. It is best to use a hand applicator pad or orbital polisher (speed 2 or 3) with a finishing pad to apply product to the paint surface. Some manufactures only recommend a hand-applied process, as well as a back and fourth motion opposed to circular motions. Always refer to the directions for their specific instructions.
An orbital polisher simulates a circular hand motion and uses a pad to evenly spread coatings across the painted surface. Professional detailers use an orbital polishers to apply liquid waxes and paint sealants for time savings and even application. However, paste waxes are intended to be applied by hand. Always remember that several thin coats provide better protection than one thick one. Only a small amount of waxes and sealants remain after burnishing, therefore several thin coats over a period of time will provide a better barrier of protection. When applying several coats of carnauba wax, allow a period of time between applications. It is recommended to wait about 4 days between applications. This time will allow the wax to harden and help the build-up of protection. If a second coat of wax is applied over a first coat that hasn't set-up, the chemical make-up of the wax will strip about 90% of the first coat. So you will only end up with 110% of protection for 200% of the effort! Waiting the recommended amount of time will only remove 10% of the previous application.
Most waxes and sealants usually need to be left on a surface for 15-20 minutes before removal. This time will vary according to the ambient temperature conditions. Wax should wipe clean without streaking or powdering. If a wax streaks, it needs to be allowed to dry on the surface longer. If it powders, it was left on too long. Remove waxes and sealants with a microfiber cloth, turning it often. It may require several cotton towels to complete the removal process. However, it may only take one microfiber cloth to remove the wax from an entire vehicle. This make microfiber towels a necessity for this task. Keep the towels form coming in contact with any dirty object. Always follow up with a clean microfiber towel for final burnishing.
Zymol Wax Method: Zymol Waxes are applied different than any other brand of automotive wax. Because of its unique formualtion and high carnauba content, it is recommended to apply in a back and forth motion, following the body lines of the vehicle. It is also recommended to only be left on the surface for 30-60 seconds before the first removal wipe. It is recommended to wipe only across the surface to only remove a bulk of the excess material. Allow the remaining material to set for an additional hour. Follow up with the final burnishing of any remaining excess material to a deep shine.
Special Note: Polymer Sealants are designed with an open linked molecule and need approximately 48 hours from the time of application to properly cross link and bond with the vehicles painted surface. Be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed from rain and water for this period of time or the surface protection may be compromised.
SPRAY WAXES: Spray waxes are an excellent product for use as a lubricant for using a clay bar, touch-ups between regular detail sessions as well as for final glossing after wax application. Sometimes, several hours after applying and removing a wax, some gassing of the surface will create streaking of the painted surface. This is caused by wax particles getting caught in the pores of the paint. Using a spray wax will re-wet the surface and allow the painted panel to be re-burnished. This will increase gloss and eliminate any streaks from the painted surface. Some spray waxes have either a gloss additive or are fortified with carnauba to increase the gloss level.
WAX BUILD UP REMOVAL: Wax build up needs to be removed, especially on a dark colored car. Old wax is more difficult to remove, and requires more care to safely eliminate this build up from a vehicle. To remove wax from a vehicles trim, use a detailing brush with soft bristles. Agitate with care, making sure not to scratch the delicate paint surface. Tooth picks or wooden stemmed cotton swabs cut off at an angle are also extremely effective. The sharp point can be used to clean edges, and remove stubborn wax build up.
Sealing the painted surface is the process of applying a protective barrier to fend off contaminates and reduces oxidation by allowing the paint to retain certain oils. Wax and sealants also protect paint from tree sap, smog UV rays and bird drippings. Sealing paint is achieved in several forms:
Wax Free Hand Glaze: A wax free hand glaze is used for new painted finish that is less than 60 days old. These products allow the paint to breathe and properly dry.
Liquid Spray Wax: A liquid spray wax is used for finger print removal or between waxing touch-ups. This product has no real durability.
Carnauba Cream Wax: A liquid creame wax contains between 6 and 15% carnauba by volume. These products are easy to apply because they are diluted with petroleum distillates or solvents to ease the use. These products offer moderate durability.
Carnauba Paste Wax: A carnauba paste wax usually contains between 20 and 53% carnauba by volume. These products are more difficult to apply, however they give a deeper shine and increased durability over its liquid counterpart.
Polymer Sealants/Resins: Polymer sealants are very popular for vehicles that are painted with an enamel or acrylic based finish or for vehicles that may only receive occasional detail treatments. Polymer sealants are like a liquid carnauba wax, except that a polymer sealant is comprised of an open linked molecule. Carnauba wax molecules are closed linked, which means that they only but up together to protect the surface. The open linked polymer molecules form together to create a chain like effect. This chain like effect, allows the polymer sealant to bond better with the paint. Polymer sealants also have greater life expediency than a carnauba wax. A carnauba wax is expected to last approximately 6 to 8 car washes, opposed to about 16 washes with the use of a polymer sealant. Be expected to sacrifice a small amount of paint depth for increased durability.
Carnauba Wax or Polymer Sealant? This is often an question for buyers. Polymer sealants are durable and work well on enamel and acrylic urethane finishes, however on the new water-borne finishes they appear to lack some durability. Most late model vehicles manufactured in North America or Europe since 2000 are produced using a water-borne (water based) finish. It has been determined that these finished are more poreous than solvent based acrylic finishes. As the polymer molecule is smaller than a carnauba wax molecule a process known as drift occurs. Drift is the process of a sealant literally moving into the pores of the painted surface where it no longer offers protection of the upper surface. Within 3-4 weeks the polymer no longer offers protection. This is apparent as the painted surface will sheet water during normal washing. Using a carnauba wax based product appears to have better durability as it does not drift into the pores as quickly.
For more information regarding water-borne finishes: Water Borne Finishes
